Anakie – what a gem of a place!!

A few weeks ago when in Noosa, we were chatting with a local jeweller who was teaching us all about pearls. How they are grown and the process. We talked of our travels, where we were headed and a similar trip she had done many years earlier. She mentioned ‘The Gemfields’ in the Central Highlands of Queensland and told us about how the land is rich with sapphires, and that many of the pieces she makes are from these local stones. She told us about the arid landscape, the vast stretches of apparent nothingness and the sleepy little mining towns aptly named Emerald, Sapphire and Rubyvale.  We were intrigued.

After leaving Yeppoon, heading West through Rockhampton, it was time to hit the inland highway for a little over 400km. The road went on and on. Slowly there were less cars, the road narrowed, endless fields of dry landscape, mobile phone connection drops out and know we must be close!

We meet our first local, Ray, as we drive into the van park we have checked into – Anakie Gemfields Caravan Park. It’s a really pretty little park with manicured gardens, brand new cabins, a country feel camp kitchen, a large dam with beautiful lily pads and frangipani trees. A real little piece of paradise, perfect for travellers from all walks of life. He gives us a brief run down of the park and the area. Soon enough we learn that he is actually the owner of the park, his family built the town of Anakie and were the first people to mine sapphires back in 1898. He offers to take us on a tour of his mine and quarry the following day.

We settle in for the night, eagerly awaiting the next day, as we are always keen to learn more from locals, hear their stories and see first hand their way of life. But not before having a delicious home cooked feast by Ray’s lovely wife Glenda!

The next day comes and we head out with Ray in his ute for a drive through history lesson on his and the neighbouring towns. He drive off road into a newly acquired piece of land where a recluse lady had lived for 20 years in a caravan, surrounded by her 300 goats! Mining on the land had commenced, but her old home (along with many goat bones) remained intact.

We continue on to the main mining area and see how all the machinery works. How they dig and where, the process of sorting the larger gemstones and rocks from the smaller, the sieve, how it’s washed and the water then recycled back into the dam. We learn about how the land is generated after this process and really get a sense of environmental awareness.

A staggering 3.2 tonnes of sapphires was found in one single area!! 3.2 tonnes! Somewhat incomprehensible. We also learn that 90% of the world’s sapphires in fact, come from Australia.

Being a resourceful man (and a true entrepreneur!) there is very little of the land and resource that is wasted. We continue on further inland into the quarry. WOW!! Never have we seen such beauty in such an unexpected place! 40 foot walls of layered rock, sand and mineral. Like a huge natural painting. All the textures and colours and natural shapes and formations, visible now that the land has been cut open. At the bottom of the quarry, the clearest of clear aquamarine blue water, filtered by the sand. Part of this natural water hole will become a private swimming oasis for Ray’s family next Summer.

Further up the hill we see how the diggings are again separated, with the final products being different sized quartz, which is trucked off to Gold Coast and surrounds. Also beautiful white sand, which is washed and separated, into 100 tonne piles!

But, it’s not all work, as we take a tour even further inland to see the many dams, full of yabbies and 3 foot barramundi, secluded fishing shanties where the family like to get away, ride the jetski or take a paddle. There are 300-400 cattle also on the land and a multitude of birdlife. Ray tells us of his strong belief that it’s not all about money. You have to love what you do but also take time for recreation and family. This really resonates with us. We also hear of so much charity work done both here and around the world. Truly inspiring and so lovely to meet a person who gives so much.

Heading back we see wild camels and learn of Ray’s son and brother who recently won a 300km camel race. We hear of his pet ostrich who walks with him every morning at sunrise. We are then shown some amazing sapphires that have been mined by his company in all the pretty colours. Blues of many shades, green, red, orange and even yellow. We see them cut and uncut and learn of their value, how they are graded for quality and where they are sold. We are shown some enormous pieces found and purchased over the years, ranging in value up to a few hundred thousand dollars. Some of the pieces had been stolen over time and eventually returned and one of the pieces is in fact very famous. Another is currently in a gallery in New York City. I hold a $13,000 pink sapphire in my hand and am in awe of it’s sparkling brilliance.

A land so rich in not only sapphires, but a history and culture that is truly unique.

We head back to the park for some lunch before having a fossick of own, with some buckets that have come back from the mine. Frank tirelessly works through hundreds of stones in the hot sun with one of the permanent residents commenting “gee…you’ve really put in a full day haven’t ya!” After finding some beautiful pieces for ourselves, we are hooked and end up fossicking through 6 buckets over the next 2 days! Some pieces are so beautiful, they are being sent off for cutting. My favourite, a rare yellow sapphire which will become a princess cut!

Later that evening we head to the lovely pub next door for a home style meal and a few cold beers with the locals. What a friendly bunch! We hear more stories of the area, learn of “thunderboxes” being used as mining decoys on local land, moving from one place to another on the property so they can dig under it for sapphires! Ingenious and hilarious at the same time to hear these lovely older gentlemen tell their cheeky stories.

We extend our stay as something about this little town and our newly found friends had won our heart. We are truly grateful for the hospitality shown, Ray’s generosity, knowledge shared and the laughs over drinks on our final night. We vow to return in the very near future as we slightly change our route to bring us back, before heading on.

If you ever find yourself in the Central Highlands, be sure to pop into Anakie Gemfields Caravan Park and say hello to Ray and Glenda!

https://www.facebook.com/Anakie-Gemfields-Caravan-Park-152583081596629/

Thank you Anakie, what an incredible experience!